Guide to Landmannalaugar – the Gateway to the Icelandic Highlands

When researching my trip to Iceland, I looked at countless photos on Instagram and Google, but none of the places made a bigger impression on me than Landmannalaugar. From the moment I first saw images from this place, I knew that I would have to include it on my photography road trip around Iceland.

How to visit and where to hike in Landmannalaugar In Iceland in 2024

The highlands of Iceland are, in my eyes, one of the most interesting places on the planet – a cross between New Zealand‘s rolling hills and the colourful mountains of the Bolivian Altiplano. Sounds perfect, right? Here is the catch.

Planning a side trip to Landmannalaugar from the Ring Road isn’t as straightforward as looking it up on the map, typing it into GPS and driving there.

The roads to Landmannalaugar are not paved, and depending on which route you choose, there could be many river crossings along the way. The effort, however, will be well worth it, and you shouldn’t skip Landmannalaugar when planning a road trip to Iceland. 

Getting to Landmannalaugar

1. Self-driving

There are three main roads leading to Landmannalaugar. The easiest and most popular one is F208 from the north. The second easiest route is F225 from the west. The third and hardest, but probably the most scenic, is F208 from the south, entering directly from Highway number 1.

I didn’t know about the first two roads then, and as my itinerary was taking me along the southern coast, I chose the third road. Driving through countless fords in the pouring rain was nerve-wracking, but I reached my destination after about three hours of slow driving. 

TIP: Under no circumstances should you attempt driving the roads to Landmannalaugar in a compact rental vehicle. A 4×4 car is a must! Before renting your car, ensure that taking it on the so-called F-roads is allowed and that you are comfortable with river crossings. 

Those dreaded F roads are defined as windy, mountainous, gravel roads with ford crossings and no bridges. They are NOT open to the public all year round.

Depending on water levels and snowfall, they could be opening slightly later or earlier, but in an average year, the F208 opens in the middle of June.

Remember to check before you start driving. The Icelandic Traffic Info website provides information about current road conditions in the Icelandic highlands. 

Making reservations (new for 2024)

The Icelandic Environment Agency has implemented a new reservation system for Landmannalaugar. From June 20th to September 15th, parking reservations and a service fee will be required for those planning to arrive in Landmannalaugar with a private or rental car between 8 AM and 3 PM. Reservations can be made here.

Visitors can access all essential information about the reservation system, including frequently asked questions, on the official website. This pilot system is being implemented in 2024 to manage congestion and ensure a better visitor experience.

2. Bus Transfer

If self-driving through rough roads doesn’t sound appealing to you, or if renting a 4×4 is not your idea of budget travel in Iceland, there are several bus transfer options to Landmannalaugar.

You can book a return ticket from Reykjavik and spend the night at the campsite or in the huts.

I highly recommend staying at least one night in Landmannalaugar to get a taste of the surroundings and do at least one hike. A bus company called Trex covers all these options.

As with everything in Iceland, bus transfers aren’t cheap. A return journey will cost ISK12900 (approximately USD95). 

Organized a day trip from Reykjavik

If your time in Iceland is limited, but you don’t want to miss out on the highlands, you can also book a day trip from Reykjavik on the first or last day of your stay in Iceland.

The downside of the day tour is that it won’t give you much time in Landmannalaugar, but again, it’s a great option for someone who doesn’t have much time in Iceland or can’t rent a 4×4.

Accommodation options in Landmannalaugar

The only accommodation available in Landmannalaugar is the campsite and the huts. No hotels, supermarkets, petrol stations or other major signs of civilisation exist.

Make sure you’ve got enough food/petrol for not only your time there but also for your return journey. 

Backcountry huts

The huts at Landmannalaugar cost 9000 ISK (70€, 90$USD) per person per night and book out well in advance. The bookings can be made on the Iceland Tourism Association website.

Camping in a tent

A safer and certainly cheaper option is to bring a tent and camping equipment. The campsite is quite busy in the summer months and operates on a first-come, first-served basis.

The cost per person/night is 2000ISK (17€, 20USD), and showers/toilets are not included. Use of the facilities costs 500ISK per day.

So, if you like to use toilets like most people, your total cost will be 2500ISK per person/night. After registering in the office, you will be given a wristband that says you have paid to use the toilets.

I honestly didn’t understand why the prices didn’t include all the facilities, but this is not my country, and these are not my rules.

The best thing about this campsite has to be the natural hot springs. After hiking, returning to soak in the tub is one of the best feelings. The steam from the springs is visible from the campsite, and the rotting egg smell is distinct, especially when the wind blows your way.

Best day hikes in Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar is where the popular multiday Laugavegur Trek starts. This 55km trail leads to Thorsmork through some of the most dramatic landscapes in the highlands.

I learned about this hike from others staying at the campsite in Landmannalaugar, and I plan on doing it when I return to Iceland. In this post, I will cover a couple of awesome day hikes I have done and highly recommend.  

1. Laugahraun lava field

An awesome loop of the Laugahraun lava field formed during an eruption around 1477. It starts near the northern point of the campsite and is very rewarding the closer you get to Mt. Brennisteinsalda.

You’ll see the steaming fumaroles coming out of the vents near the base of Brennisteinsalda, and you will be able to smell them before you learn to pronounce their names.

The hike is relatively easy with very little elevation gain and shouldn’t take longer than 2 hours. 

2. Mt Bláhnjúkur (Blue Peak)

My favourite hike, where most of the photos published in this guide were taken from, takes you up the Bláhnjúkur mountain to the southwest of the campsite.

Bláhnjúkur translate to Blue Peak in English and got its name from the shimmering blue-black colour of its sides.

The views from the top are jaw-dropping. This rugged terrain rose from the lava and ashes of the surrounding volcanoes.

Once you reach the top, you’ll have a 360-degree view of the Laugahraun Lava field and the colourful rhyolite peaks encircling it. It’s truly a photographer’s paradise.

The hike up Bláhnjúkur can be turned into a loop. From the summit, you can continue along the ridge line to the other side of the mountain, down into the valley and back to the campsite past the Laugahraun Lava field.

It’s only a 5km loop and can be done in 3 hours. However, with photography stops, it’ll probably take much longer.

It took me about 1.5 hours to reach the top of the peak. The terrain is sandy, but the path is well-maintained and easy to follow. The trailhead is easy to find, and the hiking path to the summit of Blue Peak is visible from the campsite. 

I’ve hiked up Bláhnjúkur twice in one day. The first one was during the day, turning it into a loop, which I mentioned before, and I went up for sunset the second time.

Soaking in the nearby hot springs felt twice as good afterwards!

A few packing essentials for a trip to Landmannalaugar

I visited the highlands in August, some say the middle of the European summer. However, I don’t think summer ever comes to Iceland. The temperature at night was around 0 degrees, and daytime wasn’t exactly t-shirt weather either. 

Camping equipment

If you plan on camping and don’t want to freeze at night, I recommend bringing a warm sleeping bag, an insulated sleeping pad and a lightweight three-season tent with a decent waterproof rating.

All products I have linked to are the ones I own and highly recommend. I’ve used them extensively on my hiking trips across Canada and New Zealand and tested them in various weather conditions.  

Clothing

As for clothing, I don’t go out on hikes and outdoor trips without my Fjallraven trousers and jacket. I also always bring windproof gloves and buff, especially on morning or evening hikes when the temperatures vary greatly between daytime and nighttime.

I hope I convinced you to get off the beaten path in Iceland and visit Landmannalaugar!

If you have any questions, please ask me in the comments below!  Have fun in Iceland!