Most of the photos in this article come from when I did the Tonquin Valley in July 2017. That year, British Columbia, the neighbouring province, was subjected to horrific wildfires that relocated almost 40,000 people! The wind, which was blowing east at the time, brought in a lot of haze. Bear this in mind when scrolling through the photos.
Because of the impressiveness of the Tonquin Valley, the first thing I did upon returning to civilization was book another 4 nights on the trail a couple of months later. It’s not something that happens very often with a to-do list as long as mine.
The second time I went in September 2017, we had 4 days of rain and snow, and I hardly took any photos. You know what they say: the third time’s a charm. I am planning to return.
Everything to know about hiking the Tonquin Valley Trail in Jasper
Tonquin Valley overview
Winding through the western valleys of Jasper National Park, the Tonquin Valley is a multi-day hike in the Canadian Rockies that should be VERY high on your bucket list. It’s a 44 km horseshoe-shaped relocation trek with the possibility of doing many side trips.
For most people, the pinnacles of the hike are the two Amethyst Lakes. At around 20 km from either trailhead and lying directly below the Ramparts, they mark the trail’s halfway point.
The Ramparts are a very distinctly jagged mountain range placed right on the Great Divide – the continental divide of the Americas.
How many days are required to complete Tonquin Valley Trail?
Whilst the hike can be done over two long days, I recommend spending at least 4 days and 3 nights taking in all the scenery.
Despite its beauty, I’ve noticed that Tonquin Valley is one of the least busy backpacking trips in the Rockies. There are a few reasons for it, which I’ll get to in a bit.
What makes it unique from other trips is the high probability of spotting Moose, Black, and Grizzly bears and Woodland Caribou. Only a few hundred of them still live in this part of Canada.
When to backpack the Tonquin Valley Trail?
The official backcountry camping season on the Tonquin Valley Trail lasts from the end of June until the end of September.
However, if you want to have a good time backpacking through the Tonquin Valley, I recommend holding off until later in the season and hiking between mid-August and the end of September.
July
A good month for hiking in the Rockies, however due to the location of the Tonquin Valley, going in July is like shooting yourself in the foot.
I first backpacked the Tonquin Valley trail in July, and it was a disaster. Here is why. In July, wildfires are common in the Canadian Rockies, and lightning storms usually start them.
During some years, the haze in the skies from wildfires is so bad you can’t see further than a couple hundred meters. Not to mention the poor air quality. But that’s not the worst.
Due to the proximity of swamps and lakes, Tonquin Valley is the perfect breeding ground for mosquitos. Millions of them hang around in July, making your life miserable. You must move constantly to avoid being bitten or sit in your tent. None of those is a viable option, especially when preparing meals.
August
Most of the mosquitos are gone by August, particularly the second half, but the days are still warm and pleasant to backpack through the Tonquin Valley. This is an excellent time for making those backcountry reservations!
September
September is an excellent month to backpack through the Tonquin Valley, primarily if you aim to spot Woodland Caribou. They like to hang around the marsh ground during that time of the year. It’s also an excellent time for photographers as the trees change colours.
The downside to backpacking in September is the cold nights. And by cold, I mean really cold, even down to -10 degrees Celsius. Don’t even think about leaving the trailhead without a proper sleeping bag.
When to book the Tonquin Valley Trail for summer 2025
Reservations for the Tonquin Valley Trail for the summer 2025 launch on Wednesday January 29, 2025 at 8AM Mountain Standard Time
Due to limited spaces and the ever-increasing popularity of multiday hikes in the Canadian Rockies, the spots disappear in a matter of minutes once the reservation system opens. Do not miss those dates, and be ready to go through the reservation process swiftly!
TIP: You didn’t manage to get a booking? Receive a text message when a cancellation occurs. Just register with Outdoor Status, pick dates to track, and get notified when a spot opens.
How to make reservations for the Tonquin Valley Trail for the summer 2025 backpacking season
- Go To the Parks Canada Reservation Website
- Choose Backcountry Tab
- Click the Backcountry Zone
- Select Park, Arrival, Party Size, Tent Pads
- Select Access point: Astoria or Portal Creek Trailhead depending on which way you decide to walk it
- Choose your campsites and reserve
TIP: Make sure to set up an account with Parks Canada before the Reservations open
The cost of backpacking the Tonquin Valley Trail in the summer season of 2025
As with many other backcountry trails in the Canadian Rockies, there are 3 costs involved in reserving and hiking the Tonquin Valley trail:
- Reservation fee: $11.50 per online reservation ($13.50 per phone reservation)
- Camping fee/Wilderness pass: $13.50/person/night,
- National Park Entry Fee: $10.50/person/day
If, for example, you decide to spend 2 nights on the skyline trail you will need to pay 11.50 + (2 x $13.50) + (2 x $10.50) = $59.50
For the latter consider purchasing an annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass, especially if you will be visiting any national park in Canada for more than 7 days in one year. Group and family options are also available.
The relocation between the Tonquin Valley trailheads
There are two access trailheads to Tonquin Valley: Astoria and Portal.
I think using Astoria as your starting point makes the trail easier. Although not a huge difference in elevation, the Astoria Trailhead is 200m higher than the Portal trailhead, which means less effort for you when hiking in. It will be noticeable whilst lugging around a 15kg backpack.
Hitchhiking
The most efficient way to tackle the trail is to park at the Portal trailhead then hitchhike to the Astoria trailhead and start hiking. This way once you finish the hike at Portal, your vehicle will be waiting for you.
Bringing two cars
If you plan on hiking with a bigger group, then come with two cars and leave one at each trailhead.
There is an ample parking area, free of charge at both trailheads. Whilst generally, the Rockies are very safe, car break-ins do occur occasionally, so make sure not to leave any valuables in sight in your car.
Starting and ending at the same trailhead
Currently, there is no chartered bus service between the trailheads and taxis charge a big flat rate for the 20-minute journey.
If hitching is not your thing and you understandably don’t want to spend 100$ on a short taxi ride then consider returning to your point of origin. Just remember the Astoria Trail is easier but the Maccarib Pass accessed via the Portal trailhead is more scenic. Take your pick.
Where to stay in Jasper before and after the trek
If you plan on backpacking the Tonquin Valley Trail, I highly recommend staying the night before in Jasper so you can start the next morning with fully charged batteries.
Below are a few of the top-rated places in Jasper. If you found my article helpful, consider supporting my site and booking through the affiliate links—it will cost you nothing!
Accommodation on the Tonquin Valley Trail
Campsites
| Campsite name | Distance from the Astoria Trailhead | Distance from The Portal Creek Trailhead | Elevation |
| Astoria | 7.1 km / 4.4 mi | 36.2 km / 22.49 mi | 1690 m |
| Switchback | 13.8 km / 8.57 mi | 29.5 km / 18.33 mi | 2067 m |
| Clitheroe | 17.2 km / 10.68 mi | 26.1 km / 16.21 mi | 2080 m |
| Surprise Point | 19.4 km / 12.05 mi | 28.5 km / 17.7 mi | 1978 m |
| Amethyst | 20.4 km / 12.67 mi | 22.9 km / 14.23 mi | 1985 m |
| Maccarib | 23.8 km / 14.78 mi | 20.1 km / 12.49 mi | 2012 m |
| Portal | 34.6 km / 21.49 mi | 10.2 km / 6.34 mi | 1979 m |
Which campsites to book?
To make the most of your experience on the Tonquin Valley trail you should ideally book the following campsites:
- Surprise Point, Amethyst Lakes, Portal Creek (if you are completing the horseshoe relocation), or,
- Surprise Point, Amethyst Lakes, and Switchback or Astoria (if you are walking in and out the same way from Astoria).
Amenities and campsite rules on the Tonquin Valley Trail
- Bear lockers
- open-air outhouses
- benches for cooking food
- running creek water (not treated)
- grey water disposal
- no dogs allowed
- no hammocks allowed
- no fires allowed
Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge & Adventures Lodge
To bolster the dwindling caribou population in Jasper National Park and limit the number of tourists visiting this fragile area, Parks Canada bought out both Backcountry Lodge & Adventures Lodge. As of 2023, both lodges seized their operation.
Wates Gibson Hut (ACC)
How to reserve the Wates Gibson Hut for summer 2025
The Wates-Gibson hut can accommodate up to 26 hikers in the summer. The current prices are CAD 50 for an Alpine Club Canada member and CAD 60 for a non-member. Prices are charged per person per night.
Alpine Club of Canada members can reserve the hut up to 6 months in advance, whereas non-members only 3 months in advance.
You can make a reservation directly on the ACC website
Wates Gibson Hut facilities
- mattress pads (BYO sleeping bag)
- propane stoves with propane provided
- outhouses
- Propane lighting
- Wood stove for heating with wood provided
- Untreated creek water (or snowmelt)
A Few Packing Essentials For The Tonquin Valley Trail
Backpack
For multi-day backpacking trips where I have to carry a tent and food, I use my trusted Osprey Ariel AG backpack with a 65-litre capacity and its anti-gravity harness system
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Lightweight backpacking tent
I’ve had the MSR Hubba Hubba NX for years now and used it on every single backpacking trip I did in the Rockies. So far I have no tears and all the poles are still intact. Grab a tent footprint too, to prolong the life of your tent.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Sleeping pad
Getting a good night’s rest after hiking the whole day is essential. The Sea To Summit Ultralight sleeping pad will not only keep you insulated from the ground, but it will keep you comfy too. My advice is to go with the larger size.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Camping stove
The folding MSR pocket rocket is my constant companion that provides daily hot meals in the backcountry. For its small size, it is incredibly efficient and it supports a wide range of camping pots.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Camping pot
Many companies offer pot sets however over the years I noticed that one pot is more than enough to cook a meal or make a hot cup of tea. I have the Sea To Summit Lightweight Aluminium Pot.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Water filter
The water filtering system is essential to avoid waterborne diseases such as Giardia. I use the lightweight Platypus GravityWorks. Although the initial cost is higher than other options (e.g. tablets), in the long run, the cost per liter is unbeatable.
Get it on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Solar lantern
One of the best gifts I’ve ever received. The LuminAid solar lantern is always attached to the outside of my backpack where it recharges during the day. The light it gives is enough to play games in the tent or cook dinner in the evening.
Get it on Amazon
Tonquin Valley Trail: stages breakdown
Stage 1: Astoria Trailhead to Astoria Campsite
Immediately as you start the trail, the first breathtaking view, after around 100m, is Cavell Lake. Early in the morning as the first light strikes Mount Edith Cavell and the calm atmosphere creates beautiful reflections in the water, the snow-capped peak above the Cavell Glacier glistens effortlessly in the distance. This is one of the most photogenic spots in Jasper National Park.
As you walk along the slightly undulating path the mountain vistas peak out upon occasion, offering you brief glimpses of domineering peaks through the trees.
Upon reaching the Astoria Campsite after around 2 hours, the picnic tables overlooking the Astoria River are a great spot for a lunch or snack.
Most people will find that the Astoria campsite, at around 7 kilometers (ca. 4,5 miles) in, is too close to the trailhead to be considered useful unless you plan on starting the hike late in the afternoon.
Stage 2: Astoria Campground to Surprise Point or Clitheroe/Switchback Campsites
From Astoria Campground the trail then hugs the river for another 1.5 kilometers until you reach a fork.
At the fork, a left turn will take you across a bridge and around Chrome Lake. If you booked your first night at Surprise Point campsite then consider this route.
It’s slightly shorter and has more of a steady elevation increase. This is also the most direct route for those going to the Wates-Gibson Hut.
If your first campsite reservation is at the Switchback (or Clitheroe) campsite, stick to the main path with the river on your left. The trail heads up a moderate series of switchbacks broken up by large boulder fields where cute mini-elephant-like Pika can be seen scurrying around.
You’ll arrive at the Switchback Campsite after around 4/5 hours total. Clitheroe is only 3.5km, or another hour, away and Surprise Point is 1,5-2 hours away.
The majority of the path from the trailhead to Switchback is within the tree line with brief moments of wonderful views however there’s more to come I promise.
Around the middle of July, the local Grouse hatch and outcomes the cutest offspring, they use man-made paths to navigate the forest floor so keep your eyes open.
Extension: Eremite Valley
If you stay your first night at Surprise Point, you are in the perfect spot for exploring the Eremite Valley. Do it in the morning before packing up and moving to Amethyst Lakes for your second night.
There is no point in bringing your things with you as you will be going in the opposite direction and coming back the same way. Besides, with a much lighter load, you can appreciate the surroundings effortlessly.
The Eremite Valley (photo above) is a one-way in, one-way out mostly flat hike that gives jaw-dropping views of several small glaciers that call the Ramparts Mountain Range home.
Also, a chance to admire several glacial moraines that were deposited after the Little Ice Age in the 17th century. Depending on how much energy you have, the trail into the Eremite Valley can be lengthened or shortened to meet your requirements.
Stage 3: Surprise Point to Amethyst Lakes campsite
Upon returning after a day of exploring it’s time to pack up and move campsites. From Surprise Point, the southern tip of Amethyst Lake is a short walk away.
Early in the morning, there are several reflecting bays and the mouth of the Astoria River is a common spot to watch bears fishing for rainbow or brook trout.
To reach the Amethyst Lakes campsite you need to follow the boot trodden, path first up to Clitheroe campsite then down to Amethyst Lakes. The distance between the Surprise Point and Amethyst Lakes is It’s 5.6 kilometers.
The Amethyst campground is the highlight of the entire Tonquin Valley, the Ramparts are right in front of you and you are only a hundred meters away from the lake. Several small swamps with a variety of vibrant wildflowers crowd the area offering stunning photography opportunities.
It’s also where Woodland Caribou, an endangered species of undulate in Jasper National Park, can be seen whilst changing grazing zones in September. If you spot one, please make sure to keep a distance and do not disturb them. Caribous are extremely endangered and only a handful is now left in Jasper National Park.
Stage 4: Amethyst Lakes to Portal Campground via Maccarib Pass
From Amethyst continue north along the shore parallel to the Ramparts. Soon you’ll be close to the Maccarib Campsite, an alternative if Amethyst Lakes Campground is full.
From here continue slowly uphill until climaxing on the top of the Maccarib Pass, the next part of the trail is very scenic as you’ll wind through meadows garnished with more picturesque wildflowers framed beneath numerous mountain peaks.
Way too quickly you are back amongst the trees, following a babbling brook on the approach to the Portal Campsite. If you’re not the fittest of hikers then stay here for the night but if you have the energy to tackle the next 10km, downhill, for two hours, then carry on. Your chariot awaits you.
Stage 5: Portal Campground to Portal Creek Trailhead
A final couple of hours is firstly along a rocky bank before descending below the tree line where a tributary for the Fraser River is your route marker.
Before you know it, you’ll be at the trailhead, patting yourself on the back and driving away, successfully having ticked another one of the Canadian Rockies’ most spectacular multi-day hikes off your bucket list.
The entire Tonquin Valley trail is well marked, as with all of the hikes in Jasper National Park, I’d find it very surprising if somebody managed to lose the path.
Wildlife Warnings
Grizzly bears
I bet you think I’m going to say something about grizzly bears, aren’t you? I did have a terrifying grizzly experience on the trail where a sow with two cubs followed me for around 500 m, but this was not the most difficult wildlife experience I had in the Tonquin Valley.
Mosquitos
The mosquitos here are the real enemy. During the early summer months of June and July, these aggressive little creatures swarm around you, trying their hardest to suck your blood. Their life depends on it so as you can imagine, they try pretty hard. If you can, avoid walking the Tonquin Valley trail during those months!
Otherwise, take my advice and bring plenty of repellents. We took two full bottles and almost ran out. A mosquito face net (available for a few dollars in outdoor stores in Jasper), a long-sleeved mosquito t-shirt, and long mosquito-proof pants will also come in handy and will save your sanity.
The mosquitos gradually subside until late August and in September there’s generally none left.
Additional tips for backpacking along the Tonquin Valley Trail
Trail reports
Always check the trail reports before leaving to check for closures, bear sightings, and weather conditions. You can check all Trail Conditions in Jasper here
Last minute cancellations
If you don’t have a booking all is not lost. Keep checking the reservation system as cancellations do occur on this trail.
Sun protection
The sun at these altitudes can be fierce, take a sun hat, UV-protected sunglasses, and above 30 SPF sunscreen.
Great overview of this hike! With the Astoria trailhead being closed from the 2024 wildfire, can you recommend an out- and back again itinerary from the Portal trailhead?
Thanks Ann. If I were to go from Portal trailhead I would recommend booking Portal campsite then 2-3 nights at Amethyst Lakes from where you can do day hikes and then once again one more night at Portal trailhead. I hope that helps!
A few years back I went to Tonquin along Portal Creek and we went in July just after “snowbound” label was removed at the tourist info center. On the way out we hit a blizzard. Be prepared.
Hi Jane. Thanks for your input. One has to be prepared for weather conditions at all time when heading into the backcountry 🙂
Great article! Just a heads up that the Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge no longer exists; it was bought out by Parks Canada and closed down in an effort to preserve critical land for caribou.
Hi Elya. Thanks so much for letting me know. I just googled it and read about it. Pretty good stuff. I will update the article accordingly.
Is that price for the Wates-Gibson correct? You wrote the price/hut/night is $500 for Alpine Club Canada Members or $550 for Non-Members but the website says its only $50 per night for non-members and $40 for members.
Hi Christina. Thanks for visiting my site. These were still the prices for 2022 when there were restrictions in place due to the pandemic and it was only possible to book the entire hut. These restrictions were taken down this year and it wasn’t announced until recently. I have now updated the pricing for the Wates-Gibson hut. Thanks for pointing it out to me!
Thanks Marta! Great post. I thought I had researched my trip quite well but some more stuff I found really helpful was the eremite valley side trip, the shortcut in front of Clitheroe campsite and also to try and look out for the bears catching salmon at the mouth of the Astoria river. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the feedback Ben! I hope you have an amazing trip to Tonquin Valley. I love this place!