Pale Di San Martino is one of my favourite ranges in the Italian Dolomites. I have crossed it twice before. When I first learned about the Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli, I knew I wanted to do it. This is a recount of my experience, along with tips on how you can tackle this exciting iron path yourself.
Total roundtrip distance (incl. approach)
10 kilometres / 6.2 miles
Elevation gain
1220 meters / 4000 feet
Difficulty
Advanced (C/D)
Time required
5-6 hours
The location & overview of the route
Via ferrata Bolver Lugli leads into the heart of the Pale di San Martino group and is characterized by three main sections, each with increasing technicality. The final section is pure bliss for a keen scrambler. It offers lots of cable time and outstanding, albeit intermittent, views of Monte Rosetta. All while coiling around the spires between Cimon Della Pala and Croda Della Palla.
This article describes the route from the top of the Col Verde Gondola in San Martino di Castrozza. You will end your adventure at the top of the Rosetta gondola.
TIP: This is one of the advanced via ferratas I have done in the Dolomites. Some segments are challenging and exposed, so you need to be sure-footed to tackle them.
The map of via ferrata Bolver Lugli
Important info about the via ferrata
Apart from being an advanced route, another vital thing to notice about via ferrata Bolver Lugli is the descent. It requires one to cross a snowfield. On a warm and sunny day, the snow is soft, which makes the crossing easier. You will benefit from packing ice cleats during colder days when the snow is hard.
When to go: Mid-June – September
Trail numbers:
Highest point: 3005 meters / 9858 feet
Parking:
46.26388, 11.80503
Trailhead:
46.27186, 11.82117
Nearest towns: San Martino Di Castrozza, Fiera Di Primero
Getting there
You can reach via ferrata Bolver Lugli by public or private transport. If you stay in San Martino di Castrozza, you can walk to the Col Verde chairlift.
In Addition, you must use the Col Verde chairlift up and the Rosetta gondola + Col Verde chairlift down. Tickets can be purchased directly at the terminal, and you can view the prices and running times here. The first chairlift leaves at 8:15 AM. Considering the sunrise in the summer can be as early as 5:30 AM, an 8:15 start can already be late for those trying to miss the midday heat.
TIP: There is an alternative ascent on path no. 712 from the non-operational Malga Fosse di Sopra, a short 10-minute drive North from San Martino di Castrozza. This alternative takes roughly 45 minutes and is perfect if you don’t want to be tied to the gondola schedule.
By bus
The nearest bus stop to Col Verde is S. Martino di C.-Im.Col Verde. Bus no. B122 operates along this route. The Sued Tirol Mobil info website allows you to check the schedule and find a nearby bus stop.
By car
If you travel by car, you can leave it at the Col Verde chairlift terminal. The parking area is small, so make sure to be there early.
Route Description
The approach starts a few meters from the Col Verde upper terminal on path no. 706. You will reach the base of the via ferrata in circa 30 minutes. Gear up and let the fun begin. The base of via ferrata Bolver Lugli is broad and open, providing ample room for all-sized groups to gear up. It should be reached about 30 minutes from the top of the gondola.
The scrambling begins unchallenging but rewarding, with plenty of good footholds and big bucket handholds. The route alternates between unprotected hiking and cable-protected scrambling. This first section provides a warm-up for the more challenging middle section, which is reached via a few switchbacks on a good scree slope. This is when the views become more rewarding, and the scrambling becomes tougher.
Eventually, as you enter the third section and the climbing becomes grade D technicality, the route starts to come alive. The use of iron pegs and ladders during this last push and the fact that it is almost all protected make for a remarkable ascent.
Expect to spend 2.5-3 hours scrambling along the via ferrata Bolver Lugli. I took hundreds of photos on this route, significantly slowing me down. A 10-minute walk from the end of the cables takes you just above 3000m to Bivouac Fiamme Gialle, the highest point of the route and an excellent place for rest and a quick bite.
The descent continues toward Passo del Travigno, where a short extension to the summit of Cima Della Vezzana (3192m) is possible. The return heads down the Valle di Cantoni, where snow lingers most of the year. For those comfortable skiing or snow surfing, the descent is quick when each step turns into five as you slide down.
Warning: Watch for signs close to a ‘rock island’. DO NOT CONTINUE ON THE SNOW TO THE LEFT OF THIS ISLAND. The narrow valley changes pitch quickly and funnels into a tight gully, eventually culminating into a cliff and a waterfall. A slip and an inevitable slide above this waterfall on the snow could be fatal. After the island, follow the red arrows and stick to the right. You will be fine if you pay attention and follow the apparent warning signs. After descending for another 15 minutes, looking backwards will reveal the potentially dangerous situation.
Overnight stay & dining possibilities
After a short ascent up to Passo Bottega, you can now decide to descend 700m back to the Col Verde Gondola Terminal via some uneventful switchbacks or continue further around for another 15 minutes on path 716 to reach Rifugio Rosetta. This is an excellent place for a final rest, a cold beer, or a proper Italian meal with many carbs.
Rifugio Rosetta (marked on the map) is only a 10-minute walk away from the upper terminal of the Rosetta cable car. Energy permitting, the summit of Monte Rosetta is roughly 30 minutes away from the Rosetta gondola station and well worth it.
Where to stay nearby
If you plan to tackle via ferrata Bolver Lugli you should base yourself in San Martin Di Castrozza for a few days. There are plenty of accommodation choices here. During the winter, it’s a ski resort town that turns into a great summer adventure hub.
Best Value
Lovely hotel with spacious rooms right in the centre of San Martino di Castrozza.
Top Rated
The aptly named Panorama Hotel offers fantastic Pale di San Martino range views.
Other activities nearby
Via ferrata
- Via ferrata Porton & Nico Gusela
Travel resources for the Dolomites
Shop my via ferrata gear essentials
Black Diamond Helmet
Rockfall is a significant concern on via ferrata routes. Unbeknownst to you, other climbing groups above you may accidentally dislodge a small rock and send it down the mountain. If it hits you on the head, it could have serious consequences. A helmet on your head (not inside your backpack) is necessary.
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Black Diamond Momentum Harness
Another must-have on a via ferrata route is a climbing harness. A harness works as an anchor point for your via ferrata lanyard. Try it before your trip to ensure it fits snugly without limiting your movements. Aim for a lightweight harness that will be comfortable to wear between the cable-protected sections when hiking.
- Shop Women’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
- Shop Men’s on Amazon (Worldwide) / Backcountry (US)
Edelrid, Camp or Black Diamond Via Ferrata Lanyard
A via ferrata lanyard connects the climber and their harness to the cables along the route. Its two arms and a hidden extra coil work as an energy absorption system in case of a fall. The two carabiners at the end of the lanyard clip into the cable. Make sure the carabiners are equipped with the palm squeeze mechanism. It’s the safest and most comfortable.
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Black Diamond Crag Gloves
The gloves protect your hands from cuts and scratches you may otherwise get if you haul yourself on the cable without them. I prefer full-finger gloves for extra protection against blisters. If your hands sweat quickly, go for the fingerless version.
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Salewa Wildfire Edge Approach Shoes
This is my go-to pair of hiking shoes for more accessible trails or via ferrata, where I don’t need extra ankle support. They provide excellent grip on the rock and are very durable.
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Reeloq Smartphone Securing System
If you want to take great photos on a via ferrata without worrying about losing your phone, Reeloq is the best tool for it. It’s a smartphone-securing system that allows you to use your phone on any adventure. This has been a great addition to my tool arsenal.
Shop on: REELOQ
Hello and thank you for all the amazing information that will be very helpful for our trip! We are looking to start at the base of the Col Verde Gondola, do Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli, stay the night at Rosetta, hike to Pradidali for the next night and finish in Val Canali.
We are trying to figure out where to park out car and if it will cost. Would it be best in San Martino di Castrozza to find free parking or park at the bus stop in Val Canali for free and take the bus to the start?
Hi Emily! Thanks for stopping by. Sounds like a great plan. When in Pradidali you can do the via Ferrata Porton and Nico Gusela. I write about this traverse in my hut-to-hut guide for the Pale Di San Martino range.
As for your question, it depends on what your plan is after the hike. Personally i prefer to have the car waiting for me at the end so I can avoid commuting when I am tired and sweaty after hiking for a few days. But if you plan on returning to San Martino Di Castrozza anyways then you can just leave the car parked there. There are parking possibilities in town. Park4nite is a great app to look for those. I hope that helps!