Summit Adventure To Tofana Di Rozes Along Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

Via ferrata, Giovanni Lipella circumnavigates Tofana di Rozes, a distinct peak that belongs to the Tofane group, the mountain range that stands above Cortina d’Ampezzo. It’s a long day of hiking and scrambling, and while much time is spent on the cable, the approach and descent are lengthy. Thankfully, there is no shortage of good views rewarding your every step.

Everything to know about Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

The main highlights of Via ferrata Giovanni Lipella include a 500-meter-long World War I tunnel, a series of exciting ledges, a vast rock arena and, of course, the summit of Tofana di Rozes (3225m).

This is one of the advanced via ferratas in the Dolomites. So, before adding it to your Dolomiti bucket list, ensure you have the proper experience and equipment to tackle it! 

Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella: map & stats:

• Distance: 16 km / 9.94 mi
• Elevation gain: 1100 m / 3608 ft
• Time required: 6-8 h
• Route difficulty: advanced (C/D)
• Type of route: circuit
• Parking: 46.53255, 12.07086
• Map required: Tabacco Map 03 (Cortina & Dolomiti Ampezzane)

• Yellow – the approach hike and Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella
• Blue – descend from the summit to Rifugio Dibona

TIP: Click on individual trails or icons, and you will be shown the names

Where is Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella located?

The route is located in the Tofane group. The closest town is Cortina D’Ampezzo, in the centre of Dolomites. Cortina is very well connected with Venice airport. Daily shuttles run during the summer season. It is an excellent hub for many exciting hikes and via ferratas.

READ MORE: Guide To Cortina D’Ampezzo: Top Hikes, Via Ferratas and Photography Spots

Where to stay in Cortina D’Ampezzo

Getting to the trailhead

This article describes the loop from Rifugio Angelo Dibona. The hut can be reached by driving up a small gravel private access road. There is ample gravel parking next to the hut, where you can leave your car for the day. 

TIP: Your vehicle cannot be higher than 2.45m. That means no campervans (there is a barrier at the turn-off from the main road).

The 6 Stages of Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella

Stage 1: Approach hike from Rifugio Dibona to the tunnel entry

The approach leaves behind Rifugio Dibona’s hut on a wide track and slowly gains elevation before reaching a tiny hut where path no 404 seemingly begins.

With Monte Antelao to your back, be careful not to break your neck straining for a good view as you pass sections of a vast rock that make up the base of Tofana di Rozes.

The view southward to Cinque Torri, Monte Averau, Ra Gusela, and Southwest Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites, is equally impressive as the slabs above.

The path undulates and meanders for around an hour and a half. It’s not often that I say this, as I generally find the routes in the Dolomites to be very well marked, but somehow, I did manage to miss the start of the cables. Luckily, I had my GPS, bringing me back on the right path. 

TIP: Learn from my mistake, and don’t miss the tunnel entry. Look out for the two memorial plaques pictured above. They mark the start of the via ferrata and the tunnel entry. 

Stage 2: The World War I tunnels

While initially, it is unnecessary to kit up entirely, as you will be going into the tunnels, the broad base below the first ladder provides plenty of room. At the very least, put on your helmet and head torch. You will need them. It is pitch black in the tunnels.

Two ladders mark the tunnel entry. You will continue a 500-meter-long subterranean tunnel ascent up a long staircase. It is damp and dark inside, so put on another layer before entering the tunnels. Bringing gloves isn’t bad either (I always pack my scrambling gloves).

Stage 3: Via ferrata

Upon emerging back into the sunlight, it’s still another 15 minutes before the start of the real scrambling. After the tunnels, the path loses a lot of elevation, so it may be counterintuitive to walk down when the target is the summit high above you.

Many desired lines can be seen venturing off to indistinct rock faces in search of the route, but if you stay on the main path, the start will soon be visible on the right-hand side.

The climbing is decent grade but not strenuous. To begin with, there are many areas where meltwater pours over black rock, creating slipperily but always well-protected traverses. On a hot day, you’ll be welcome to a quick shower.

As the pathway widens, you pass under a thick overhang, round a scenic corner, and climb more steeply. The climbing is still not too strenuous.

WARNING! Because of the aforementioned wet conditions and the route’s north-facing orientation, it’s not uncommon for some sections to be icy, especially in the early season, when there is still a lot of snow present, or late in the season when the temperatures at night plummet below freezing. 

Eventually, you’ll reach a fork marked “Cima” to the right and “Cantore” to the left. The latter makes for a handy escape route if the weather takes a turn for the worse.

“Cantore” refers to Rifugio Cantore, which lies just below Rifugio Guissani but has not been operational for many years. “Cima”, which translates to the summit in Italian, is your route and refers to the peak of Tofana di Rozes.

The path then heads diagonally up a section known as the ‘amphitheatre’ and contains some short vertical ascents. This is undoubtedly the most challenging part of the climb. 

Stage 4: Summit extension

Above these, the route plateaus and combines with the hiking route along a scree slope up to the summit of Tofana. From Rifugio Dibona to the summit, it should take 4 to 5 hours (3 if you are a mountain goat). 

Although this last part of the ascent up to the summit isn’t exciting, the views from the top of Tofana are phenomenal, so the scree-ridden switchbacks are somewhat of a necessary evil. Around 10 minutes away from the summit, you will be able to spot the massive iron cross. 

Stage 5: Descend from the Tofana Di Rozes summit to Rifugio Giusani

Once you’ve filled your summit vistas, begin the walk down. Initially, the descent retraces your previous steps before it continues on scree switchbacks to the Fortananegra saddle. Trust me when I say this: your legs will burn. 

Stage 6: Rifugio Giusani to Rifugio Ivano Dibona

Rifugio Giusanni is a beautifully located mountain hut on the Fontananegra saddle. You will be able to spot it on the descent from the summit. Bring cash and enjoy a cold pint or proper warm meal from the hut’s restaurant. You’ve got to love the Dolomites for their hut system.

From here, take the extensive, well-trodden path no. 403, back down to Rifugio Dibona, where you started. You should reach it within 60-90 minutes of leaving the Giusanni hut. 

Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella as part of a 2-day-traverse

If you don’t have a car to get to Rifugio Dibona, you can change the route slightly and start the hike from Rifugio Lagazuoi. There is a public bus from Cortina to Passo Falzarego. Here, you can catch the gondola that goes to the refuge or hike up via the Lagazuoi tunnels. 

TIP: I recommend staying overnight at the Lagazuoi hut to ensure an early start the next day. Breakfast is usually served at the hut around 7 AM.

From the Lagazuoi hut, head east on path 401, followed by 402 and 404, to the start of Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella. Complete the ferrata with the summit extension. As you head down path 403 from Rifugio Giusanni, keep left and venture onto Sentiero Astaldi, a protected walk with a Smith/Fletcher rating of 1A.

Afterwards, a quick 5-minute walk takes you to Rifugio Pomedes, where you can get the chairlift down straight to Rifugio Pie Tofana and a bus back to Cortina.

Other hikes and via ferratas you can do near Cortina D’Ampezzo

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• Itineraries for the Italian Dolomites
• Via ferratas in the Italian Dolomites
• Day hikes in the Italian Dolomites
• Hut-to-hut treks in the Italian Dolomites